Jewellery & Watches

Oxford - 17th November 2021. Starts 11AM

Lot 272

A late 19th century amethyst demi-parure, comprising a rivière necklace, a pair of bracelets and a cross brooch/pendant, the necklace designed as a line of graduated oval mixed-cut amethysts in pinched collet settings, with central hinged loop fitting and foil-backed amethyst clasp, (later tongue fitting), the bracelets similarly set with slightly graduated oval mixed-cut amethysts, each with a foil-backed amethyst clasp, convertible as a collar necklace when worn together, the brooch/pendant similarly set with oval and pear-shaped mixed-cut amethysts, with bead accents, together with a pair of matched amethyst ear pendants, on screw-back fittings, necklace length 42cm, bracelet length 19.3cm each, brooch/pendant length 5.6cm, ear pendants length 3.9cm (5)

Condition report:

Amethysts have slightly variable light to mid pinkish-purple hues, all with surface scuffs, scratches and nicks/small chips. The amethysts have mostly good transparency, some stones containing fracture inclusions, 'tiger stripes' and faint whiteish colour zoning. Amethysts that are foil-backed have a more pinkish hue, patchy in places, due to the coloured foil. Amethysts graduate in the necklace from approx. 19.5mm length x 16mm width x 9.5mm depth down to 11.5mm length x 10.8mm width (depth unknown). Amethysts graduate in the bracelets from approx. 13.5mm length x 10.5mm width x 5.2mm depth down to 10.8mm length x 8.5mm width (depth unknown). The largest amethyst in the brooch/pendant measures approx. 18mm length x 12.2mm width x 7.2mm depth. The largest amethyst in the ear pendants measures approx. 20.5mm length x 10.8mm width x 7.2mm depth (this is slightly larger than the other pear-shaped amethyst drop).

The settings to the ear pendants are slightly different in style and slightly more yellow in hue, and so appear to be matched to the other pieces. The settings and mounts in all pieces have surface wear, scuffs, nicks and chips, commensurate for age and use, with patchy thinning and occasional small losses to the edges of the settings, and areas of porosity in some places. Some of the mounts have visible solder joins which may be as a result of repair. There are shallow dings to the backs of the clasps. The mounts are untested and unmarked, but appear to be gold. The later replaced tongue fitting to the necklace is gilt metal. The fittings are all currently functioning.

Approximate gross weights: necklace 66.2gm, bracelets combined 41.3gm, brooch/pendant 20.8gm, ear pendants 8.7gm.

£2000 - £3000


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